Paula Maia's Wine blog

Hansjorg Rebholz, owner and winemaker of Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz was grand. With such finesse and contained enthusiasm, he graciously and generously guided us through his wines, highlighting the differences in terroir while we savored its end result.

Producer of the Year in 2002, Mr.Rebholz is one of the pioneers of top quality in the Pfalz, continuing and elevating his family 300 years history of  wine making. Every single wine we tasted brought in this sense of wonder and astonishment, crowned by the fabulous Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.

Without knowing it, we had saved the best for last. Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz was the last winery we visited on this trip and it was epic. We accomplished  our goal of visiting as many best producers of Germany as we could. I just can’t wait to start it all over again. See you soon Hansjorg.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

In the Pfalz is where I realized the trip had just begun. As breath taking as all the regions we had been thus far were, the Pfalz was magic. More like a fairy tale than a real place, the second largest wine growing region in Germany, the Pfalz is strikingly distinctive.

Cellar master Gunther Deeters hosted us at Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht, which turned out to be one of the most electrifying wine talks of the entire trip. Extremely passionate about the craft of wine making, Gunther showed us the estate full line, explaining one by one their individual style and characteristics.

The wines of Bernd Philippi, the owner of Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht, is said to be one of the most traditional of the Pfalz; true magnificient masterpieces. If Gunther didn’t have to pick up his girl from kindergarten, chances are we would still be there, talking and sipping that small barrel aged 1998 Kallstadter Sekt.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

With the rain it was hard to see what was around, but the shape of the steepy vineyards gave room to the imagination. We were staying in a guesthouse right on the Mosel in Briedel, and arrived just on time to order a Sekt and chill on the porch overlooking the river. I wish I could stop time and live in that idyllic scenario forever.

The good news is that early in the morning we went straight to Graach, where we visited Weingut Kees Kieren. I had had one of their Rieslings before and went there knowing how good they were, however, I was blown away by the quality of their other wines as well as their sparkling grape juice!

Production is limited and rarely comes to the US, so the only way of tasting Kees Kieren wines is there, in Germany. Oh well, twist my arm.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

Here we are, in our most anticipated wine region.  I had seen many pictures of the Mosel, but it didn’t do any justice. The cliffy, terraced vineyards of the valley on the river banks with its million loops is like a dance of nature. Breathtaking; simply stunning.

At Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein, in Winningen, Reinhard Lowenstein was incredibly generous and talked to us for hours. He passionately explained how the concept of terroir is so important and that his elegant and subtle Rieslings are only possible because of the marginal climate in the northern Mosel. So captivating, one can listen to Mr. Lowenstein brilliance eternally, hopefully in the company of any of his magnificent wines.

We left in owe and went straight to dinner down the road. Naturally we ordered one of Mr.Lowenstein’s best wines, a Riesling Uhlen Blaufüßer Lay, a ‘Erste Lage’- similar to Erstes Gewachs, First Growth or Grand Cru (for detailed explanation go to German VDP). The wine was ethereal, with complex lush layers of minerality, herbs and exotic fruit. It was one of the happiest moments of my life. Thank you Reinhard!

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

When I think of Rheingau the first name that comes to my mind is Robert Weil- one of the world’s best producers- and his monumental Chateau-like estate. It was around ten in the morning when we arrived and I have never been so happy to start drinking this early.

Made of Riesling grapes from First Growth vineyards, and only in the best declared vintages, their dessert wines are granted 100 points almost always. Not your everyday wine, but rather for very special occasions, being it a pic-nic in the park or your wedding day, depending how you look at it.

The day kept getting better and better. Lunch had been planned at Schloss Vollrads, which I regret to remember that we missed it. Nonetheless viewing the castle was spectacular and lunch at a nearby winery was so good that I didn’t care. I had a Riesling Flamm Kuchen, a crisp flat bread with cream fraiche, bits of bacon, shallots, and roasted Riesling grapes. Seriously, to die for!

Next stop was Schloss Johannisberg, another symbol of Rheingau region. A majestic sight founded as a Benedictine Monastery around 1100 A.D. Plantings are 100% of Riesling variety and the wines are very nice. The terrace overlooking the vineyards was the perfect place to watch the sunset, while savoring a glass of their own Sekt.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

After being spoiled rotten on my first trip to Europe, I told my husband we had to go back- asap. Back in NY I started to plan a trip to Germany’s wine country. The plan was to visit as many renowned estates as possible. Out of 13 regions, we covered 7: Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Mittelrhein, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz and Baden.

We landed in Frankfurt, and to my surprise there was a wine fest just outside the hotel. I couldn’t believe it! Right away- off a truck- I had started my journey. Bubbles, Roses, Rieslings all together with sausages, cheese and cured meats. I was like a kid in a candy store, and that was only the first 15 minutes of the beginning of this trip.

Finally my husband managed to drag me out of the fest and show me around. It was mind boggling to walk along the river and see castles and roman ruins in sync with skyscrapers, hookers, beergartens, gothic churches, bicycles, boats, tourists, locals, audis, benzes, bimas, applestrudel, you name it!

My head was spinning- I needed a drink! What do I see? An amazing market with a weinstube on the rooftop. Weinstube is a pub or a wine bar traditional of Southern Germany. Local wines are preferred and served in a very informal setting. So right there, sipping the best Sekts I could possibly ask for, watching people and produce, I realized I was hooked. I had fallen in love with Germany.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]